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Part of EdDx Educational Series
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Connecting the Water Supply and Purging
If you recall, the boiler was hydro tested in the garage. Can you imagine if you didn't pressure test and you discovered a leak [in the boiler]--at this point with all the connections--both soldered and threaded?
All joints and valves were check for leaks. Words you don't want to hear: "We got a leaker!"
Everything checked out and there were no leaks (you want to believe this, right?)
Now we can purge.......
All joints and valves were check for leaks. Words you don't want to hear: "We got a leaker!"
Everything checked out and there were no leaks (you want to believe this, right?)
Now we can purge.......
The entire system needs a good flushing, then a smaller hose replaces the large hose and is placed in a bucket to make sure as much air as possible is out of the system. If it is bubbling--it still has air in the system.
Keep in mind, the boiler is not vented, has no natural gas piped in, and is not even wired in at this point. You may get a surprise later when the boiler is fired up. Despite a thorough purging, you still may have an air pocket in a section...how will you know? Hint: all the baseboard piping will get hot except in one area/room.
Usually, a good purging takes care of the air pockets, and the air vent/separator can handle the remainder. But there are circumstances (that I won't get into here) where some "creative" piping done by a previous installer can lead to a section blocked with air.
With a little "detective" work, you can locate the area not getting heat and use the bleeders on the baseboard to eliminate the air (the boiler is heating at this point).
Keep in mind, the boiler is not vented, has no natural gas piped in, and is not even wired in at this point. You may get a surprise later when the boiler is fired up. Despite a thorough purging, you still may have an air pocket in a section...how will you know? Hint: all the baseboard piping will get hot except in one area/room.
Usually, a good purging takes care of the air pockets, and the air vent/separator can handle the remainder. But there are circumstances (that I won't get into here) where some "creative" piping done by a previous installer can lead to a section blocked with air.
With a little "detective" work, you can locate the area not getting heat and use the bleeders on the baseboard to eliminate the air (the boiler is heating at this point).
A new MC cable was connected to the boiler, and the Taco 007e circulator was wired.
Note the Webstone valve/flange with a hose drain that can be used to purge. This valve allows purging on the supply side, as well as the valve on the return side. The choice is yours.
Note the Webstone valve/flange with a hose drain that can be used to purge. This valve allows purging on the supply side, as well as the valve on the return side. The choice is yours.
WARNING :This article is for educational purposes; I am just relating my personal experiences. I believe the information given to be accurate, but should not be used as an instructional manual. You should follow the manufacturer's directions and comply with all local codes. Your level of expertise and educational credentials/certifications may vary. When you are not confident, why not let a professional HVAC person do the installation?
EducationDx
©2023
©2023
After making repairs and modifications to the existing water supply lines, several iso valves and the Caleffi Automatic Filling Valve with Backflow Preventer were added.
Note: Link is for a press fitting just to illustrate, but this is a threaded version
Note: Link is for a press fitting just to illustrate, but this is a threaded version
Some changes were made to the supply side, and the water pressure was set and in sync with the gauge on the boiler as well as the expansion tank pressure. Note the Caleffi air vent on the boiler. Of course, there is another vent on top of the air separator.
Webstone Ball Valve with Drain=no need for two valves here to purge
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Education Dx
>>PHOTOS and ILLUSTRATIONS on this site<<
Connecting the Water Supply and Purging
After making repairs and modifications to the existing water supply lines, several iso valves and the Caleffi Automatic Filling Valve with Backflow Preventer were added.
Note: Link is for a press fitting just to illustrate, but this is a threaded version
Note: Link is for a press fitting just to illustrate, but this is a threaded version
Some changes were made to the supply side, and the water pressure was set and in sync with the gauge on the boiler as well as the expansion tank pressure. Note the Caleffi air vent on the boiler. Of course, there is another vent on top of the air separator.
If you recall, the boiler was hydro tested in the garage. Can you imagine if you didn't pressure test and you discovered a leak [in the boiler]--at this point with all the connections--both soldered and threaded?
All joints and valves were check for leaks. Words you don't want to hear: "We got a leaker!"
Everything checked out and there were no leaks (you want to believe this, right?)
Now we can purge.......
All joints and valves were check for leaks. Words you don't want to hear: "We got a leaker!"
Everything checked out and there were no leaks (you want to believe this, right?)
Now we can purge.......
Webstone Ball Valve with Drain=no need for two valves here to purge
The entire system needs a good flushing, then a smaller hose replaces the large hose and is placed in a bucket to make sure as much air as possible is out of the system. If it is bubbling--it still has air in the system.
Keep in mind, the boiler is not vented, has no natural gas piped in, and is not even wired in at this point. You may get a surprise later when the boiler is fired up. Despite a thorough purging, you still may have an air pocket in a section...how will you know? Hint: all the baseboard piping will get hot except in one area/room.
Usually, a good purging takes care of the air pockets, and the air vent/separator can handle the remainder. But there are circumstances (that I won't get into here) where some "creative" piping done by a previous installer can lead to a section blocked with air.
With a little "detective" work, you can locate the area not getting heat and use the bleeders on the baseboard to eliminate the air (the boiler is heating at this point).
Keep in mind, the boiler is not vented, has no natural gas piped in, and is not even wired in at this point. You may get a surprise later when the boiler is fired up. Despite a thorough purging, you still may have an air pocket in a section...how will you know? Hint: all the baseboard piping will get hot except in one area/room.
Usually, a good purging takes care of the air pockets, and the air vent/separator can handle the remainder. But there are circumstances (that I won't get into here) where some "creative" piping done by a previous installer can lead to a section blocked with air.
With a little "detective" work, you can locate the area not getting heat and use the bleeders on the baseboard to eliminate the air (the boiler is heating at this point).
A new MC cable was connected to the boiler, and the Taco 007e circulator was wired.
Note the Webstone valve/flange with a hose drain that can be used to purge. This valve allows purging on the supply side, as well as the valve on the return side. The choice is yours.
Note the Webstone valve/flange with a hose drain that can be used to purge. This valve allows purging on the supply side, as well as the valve on the return side. The choice is yours.
WARNING :This article is for educational purposes; I am just relating my personal experiences. I believe the information given to be accurate, but should not be used as an instructional manual. You should follow the manufacturer's directions and comply with all local codes. Your level of expertise and educational credentials/certifications may vary. When you are not confident, why not let a professional HVAC person do the installation?
EducationDx
©2023
©2023
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You can hover over any link to see if it is an Amazon link, if this matters, or a link to a page on this website or to a reference page, e.g., Smithsonian Institution, bookmark on this website, etc.
*Disclosure: Some links on this website are associate links and are used to help illustrate what an item looks like, and you can decide if you want to just look or purchase the item. "As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases." We receive a small commission (that helps support this website) if you actually purchase from this company, but the price to you remains the same.
You can hover over any link to see if it is an Amazon link, if this matters, or a link to a page on this website or to a reference page, e.g., Smithsonian Institution, bookmark on this website, etc.
You can hover over any link to see if it is an Amazon link, if this matters, or a link to a page on this website or to a reference page, e.g., Smithsonian Institution, bookmark on this website, etc.